Friday, September 24, 2010

I live in Barcelona!

Wait, you already know that. But now, I'm almost official. For all new residents in Spain, within the first 30 days, they must register (or empadronar) at "city hall" with their living address. The form/process is called obtaining your empadronamiento and requires quite a bit of paperwork.

My process took two trips and a lot of waiting in line. The first trip was to obtain the form, which I gave to Christina (roommate) to fill out and attach her resident card. The second trip was taking this filled out form, my Visa and Passport, and getting my empadronamiento. A few of my friends had a little trouble with this, and I was getting nervous because I needed this form to apply for my NIE, which must be done before Sept30. I waited in line and finally a grey-haired man called my number. When he saw I was a "researcher," he asked what I was doing. After I explained my project, his eyes grew wide with interest. He pulled me close to him and said, "I'm in healthcare too!" Now I'm thinking this guy is on crack. Why, if you are in healthcare, are you working at the town hall office? Turns out the guy is an auditory therapist and he can help heal people by producing certain sounds close to their body. He kept saying "the medicine of the future!!!"

I humored him as long as I could (for about 45 minutes). He pulled out a CD and asked me to listen to it twice and email him my thoughts (yes, hippies have email). From what I gathered by the cover, the CD is of dolphin squeals at 432 Hz...I'll let you know if it changes my life. Finally, we get to my paperwork. He looks at my passport, filled with stamps from all over the world, and was enamored. He's only left Spain once to travel to none other than New Orleans, the place I lived long ago. He types a few lines in his computer, prints out my certificates, shakes my hand, and wishes me good luck with my work. I'm finiding Spain's pace refreshing. Lesson learned...take interest in people's lives, you never know how they will influence yours.

Talk soon

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Raval

I've made my way back to the neighborhood of Raval. So far, I've spent nights in Raval, L'Eixample, and Barceloneta, but will be eventually settling in Barrio Gotico, the old city with winding streets and awesome architecture.

Back in the day (and until about 25 years ago), Raval was a tough neighborhood. It was filled with immigrants, the working class, drugs, and prostitution. All those things can still be found here, but it's a neighborhook I really like with tons of culture. The food in this area is amazing. You can get great Indian, Pakistani (they are different), Chinese, and Turksih food. Bakeries are everywhere, as are trendy shops for the average person. It's still close to many tourist attractions (I can walk to Las Ramblas in about 2 minutes), but you feel a world away. The only time you see tourists here are when they are lost, because there isn't much in the "guidebooks" to see.

Tomorrow starts the grand festival of Merce. Talk soon.

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Paella

Paella is a traditional Spanish/Mediterranean dish made of rice, veggies, tons of olive oil, and fresh seafood. Fresh as in it was moving once you ordered it. A few friends and I have begun a search for the best Paella in town. We meet every Sunday and try out a new restuarant...Ted has been ever so kind to keep track of our experiences.

There are 2 main types of Paella in Spain...pre-made and fresh. There are companies that make the Paella, flash freeze it, and sell it to all the touristy restuarants on Las Ramblas for unsuspecting travellers. We do not fall into this category.

The best Paella is found in Barceloneta (the seafront area of Barcelona), in small mom & pop restuarants that keep serving you food until you pass out. Also, many of the best places only make the dish once a week, on Sundays. And if the place is really good, all the locals know about it and the dish is gone by 3pm.

The place we went to last week had a sign charging 15.50 euros/person. That, even for Spain, is a little ridiculous. We went inside and once the realized we weren´t tourists, the price automatically went down to 8 euros...awesome. After waiting about 1.5 hours and munching on crab croquettes, fish, and "surprise pimientos" (the surprise is 1 out of every 10 pimientos are extra spicy, sorry, I ruined it...), we finally received our Paella. It was glorious. Easily the best meal I have had in Spain. Words can not describe it, but I can´t wait for next Sunday.

To top off the weekend, we went to the beach for the next 3-4 hours. The weather has been pretty rainy/dreary lately so it was nice to work on my tan (haha...tan). Monday morning means back to the grind. I have a few meetings set up at work and Dr. Miró and Maria have asked my assistance in a few of their projects. They are changing the department from a service-based (Medical ED on one floor, Surgical ED on another, Psych ED somewhere far far away) to acuity-based model (Resuscitation here, Urgent/Non-Urgent there). I also get to provide my two cents for the new ED they are building which is scheduled to open in 2014. Sounds cool, but I also have a lot of research I need to jump on in the next month. Hopefully I can keep my air of competence awhile longer.

Talk soon

Thursday, September 16, 2010

Progress!

The past 24 hours have probably been the best so far in terms of progress. The past week I’ve been focused solely on finding an apartment, which turned out to be insanely difficult. 2 reasons:
1.       September is typically the time when many university students and visiting scholars come to Barcelona. The flux in demand somehow turns into a seller’s market. One place I called was listed for rent at 10am and by the time I called at 1pm it had already been leased for the year.
2.       I’m picky, and rightfully so. I’m not in college so I have no reason to live in a dump, especially for the next 9 months. I also wanted to live with native Spaniards, which turned out to be pretty difficult. And finally, I wanted my own double bed in a room larger than a closet with a window. Not too much to ask, right?
After viewing at least 20 flats, I found the one. Tuesday night at 10:15 I go to see the flat and end up being interviewed by the 3 roommates. They didn’t care if I liked the place; they only cared if they liked me. Great. I was grilled with questions for nearly 30 minutes and they finally showed me around. The room was large, with a terrace, a double bed, huge bathroom (shared), nice living room, in the center of the Born/Gotico District (old town Barcelona). Furthermore, the roommates were perfect. All 3 were between 28-31 and native Spaniards. Elena is a ballet instructor from the South of Spain; they guy (nombre?) is an architect from Madrid, and I forgot what Christina does.
I charmed the hell out of them. I was smart, funny, and just plain awesome. It helped that Christina lived in NC for a year growing up. Maturity is a different age in Spain. Since it typically takes Spaniards longer to finish school, someone who is 24-25 isn’t considered an adult, they are usually a fresh graduate who goes crazy and parties. I, on the other hand, am and old soul. Most people think I’m 30-ish anyways so it’s only fitting. I leave the apartment about 45 minutes later like the most awkward end to a first date ever. I’m not sure if they like me, if they’ll call me, will there be a second date? I don’t know…I just didn’t know. I get home and my phone rings. It’s Christina. She says “Hi Kam, wanted to let you know so you can sleep easy tonight…the place is yours! We would love for you to join our family!” VICTORY! I found the perfect piso!!!
That wasn’t the only good that has happened in the past 24 hours. Derek, TJ, Alex, and Will booked their tickets to come to Spain in Feb-March. We’re hopefully going to make a trip to Lisbon and Marrakesh. Danny will likely join as well. LH and her sister are also planning a little visit around early January. I love hearing these good things from you all is it makes me feel less distant from home. Think of the Atlantic as a large puddle…all you have to do is jump it!
I went to the bank today to retrieve my ATM card which I ordered last week. I spoke with my man/banker Arnau for a quick minute, asked him how is vacation was, etc. etc. I’ve learned that you have to take a legitimate interest in people’s lives here. Afterwards, I asked him about some of the fees on my account. The bank charged me 10Euros to give them money, ridiculous, I know. He felt guilty, and gave me a refund! Without asking, I got the hook up!
Best part of today was my first day at work. I’ve been pretty antsy to get started and settle down into some sort of “normal” routine. I had my first meeting with Dr. Miro today and we sat and talked about my research plans and goals over the year. We began discussing Spanish healthcare in general, and I realized I have a lot to learn. The system is so different here. I’m doing my research at the top research hospital in Spain with the largest ED (over 70 beds, 120,000 patient visits per year). The staff were very excited that I chose them and were honored to help out a Fulbrighter.
Dr. Miro introduced me to 3 other individuals who I will work closely with. Dr. Joan Salmeron was the Medical Director of the ED and he approved my research last year. He has now been promoted to the Assistant Medical Director at the Hospital Clinic. Dr. Miguel Sanchez is the new Medical Director of the ED. He’s a guy I emailed last year when I thought of this proposal but never heard back from. Small world! And finally, Maria Asenjo, the Administrator of the ED who will be my top contact.
Aside from meeting all of these very accomplished individuals, Dr. Miro made a few calls and opened up possibilities for me to extend my research. He is the Editor in Chief of Spain’s National Journal on Emergency Medicine so all the top researchers submit articles for publication to him. He made calls to colleagues in the Canary Islands (off the coast of Africa), Andorra (small Principality between Spain and France), Cordoba (Southern Spain), Valencia (South of Barca), and Basque Country (between Spain and France). All have invited me to visit their facilities for 1-2 weeks to see the differences in departments between regions. This is awesome because I wanted to travel to all of these regions and I have fellow Fulbrighters living in many of the cities so there is a lot of potential. I already wrote to the Commission for extra funds…hopefully it all works out.
I also had my first menu del dia today. The menu is typically a fixed 1st and 2nd course with a dessert served during lunch (from 2p-4p). It’s typically very filling as lunch is the most important meal of the day in Spain. Afterwards, I completely understand why Spain has siestas. I couldn’t keep my eyes open. No studying today…I made too much progress and headed home to my couch.
Tonight will be a little sad. I’m moving out of my flat with Paula and Amar. I’ve gotten to know them very well and I know they will continue to remain close friends of mine. Maria has been nice enough to put me up until my flat is available…she lives on the beach so I don’t expect the next few weeks to be extremely productive. My friend Esther from Stockamp is in town so I’m meeting her for dinner. What a day…talk soon friends.

Sunday, September 12, 2010

Catalan Pride

For those of you who aren't too familiar with Barcelona, it lies in the region of Catalonia, the Northeaster part of Spain. They are a very proud bunch and do not consider themselves "Spanish." They speak a different language, Catalan, which is a mix of normal Castellano Spanish, French, and Italian. Needless to say, there is a lot of hand gestures and close talking to accompany said language.

Yesterday was the Festival de Libertad in Barcelona, while the rest of Spain celebrated Dia del Blanco. The festival here in BCN is to signify the cultural independence from Spain, something the natives, both young and old, are for. A few fellow Fulbrighters and I joined the festivities by spending a solid portion of the day at the beach, attending the concert/festival at Parque de la Ciudatella, and going out for Tapas...fun night in all.

For many expats, it's very difficult to make friends with the natives here. For one, friendship here is not thrown around as loosely as it is in the US. We will often introduce acquaintences or classmates as our friends when in a group. That doesn't happen here. For a Spanish person to open up to you, it's a pretty big deal. And the reasoning makes sense.

Barcelona is what they call a "cosmopolitano" or cosmopolitan city. There are people from everywhere. And there is no shortage of short term (less than one year) visitors who come for "intercambios" or cultural excahanges. Thus, many people do not waste their time with these outsiders who will leave their lives in a matter of months. It's too much effort with not much to gain. I don't agree with it, but I see their point.

So, how do you make friends? How do you experience the culture? It's tough for sure. I met an American here the other day who spent 1.5 years teaching here and has met only a handful of people, mainly other expats. My flatmate Amar took me out to meet some of his friends...2 Mexican PhD candidates, 1 American, and 4 native Catalonians. They were all friendly and open, but there was some apprehension to letting another American into the group. I would not, however, let them speak to me in English. Part of my goal here is to perfect my Spanish and hopefully leave being able to understand Catalan (signing up for beginner courses shortly). Even though I was stumbling through words and screwing up my verb tenses (there are over 50 different verb tenses depending on the article you use...) they were impressed at my effort. In 5 short days, I spoke more Spanish than the other American girl. The guys invited me to tryout for their soccer team this coming Thursday. I'm pretty excited, but they are a very competitive bunch. Amar played semi-professionally in Germany for the 3rd division...I haven't touched a soccer ball in months. Here goes nothing...

Thursday, September 9, 2010

Orientation and Madrid

I flew to Madrid this past Saturday for our program orientation. I took a flight out of Girona (about 90km outside BCN) as it's a RyanAir hub, and thus very cheap flights. They go all over Europe for next to nothing...I'm glad I found out about this little secret as I'm sure it will be very useful this year.

I had my first experience in a hostel and it was quite surprising. The staff were very helpful and the rooms/bathrooms were spotless. My location was also perfect...about 5mins from Pl de Sol, one of the main hubs of Madrid (which btw only has 4 skyscrapers). I walked around the gardens, through the Museo de Prado, and enjoyed a delicious cheeseburger for dinner (I say delicious very loosely). Later that night some people I met accompanied me to Sol and afterwards we checked out a Hookah bar close by with awesome late night kebabs.

I spent the better part of the weekend and most of the week prior getting nervous about orientation, the people I would meet, and whether or not I would fit in. It took me awhile to accept this grant partly because I wasn't sure if I could hack it and moreso because I didn't think I "belonged" to the group. Two things about me most people don't know...I have a hard time saying no to people and at times I need affirmation/approval from others to alleviate some of my own doubts; show I'm on the right track; acknowledge that I've got things under control. On Sunday, I found myself immediately relieved of an immense amount of pressure...

On Sunday, I took the metro to the College where we were having our orientation. I think every Fulbrighter I met this past week in some way felt the same as I did. It was like the first day of kindergarten, except we had no mom's to wipe away our tears. We were all eager to meet one another and clear our doubts, share our stories, our aspirations, explain our research proposals, our travel plans, and mainly, our excitement.

The same day we began moving in, the College began Freshman Orientation. Oh how I remember those days...eager young kids awaiting all the freedoms of dorm life. One main difference, freshman hazing is considerably worse here, and borderline ridiculous. At night, the Freshmen aren't allowed back in until after 4am. They often have to walk around the Ciudad Universidad in a single file line dancing, clapping, and singing. At clubs, they have to get on stage, guys remove their shirts, and get humiliated. During meals at the cafeteria, they must stand on tables and do whatever upperclassmen ask them, even if it's serenade young American Fulbrighters or spontaneously break out in dance. College...yay.

Monday began our official welcoming to the Fulbright Comission. There are 2 main groups: 65 English Teach Assistants spread across Spain and 25 Pre/Post-Doctoral researchers. We compiled the largest class of Spanish Fulbrighters ever.

Since I'm a researcher, my sessions were geared towards how to get started, how not to get discouraged, and other helpful hints and tricks. Some of the research proposals were awesome...to this day I still wonder how I received funding. My friend Chris will be in Madrid finalizing a micro combustion engine that fits in the palm of your hand and can run off of a variety of fuels, including diesel, ethanol, gas, and vodka (yes, vodka) without losing any power; Alice is working in Mardrid to build a probe to explore life on Mars; Ted will be in Barcelona and is researching the long-term effects of river water ecosystems; Maria will also be in Barcelona and is doing something crazy with protiens and mRNA (sorry Dr. DeSaix if you read this, I apologize for not knowing the details); Christina is studying renewable energy grids; Milly will be studying/practicing violin in Madrid; another guy is studying exiled Latino writers in Madrid; and Ivo is studying the post-Franco intermediary government here in Barcelona. All very interesting topics...

On our last night, we were invited to attend a reception downtown at the Institute of International Education. Attendees included diplomats, former Fulbrighters, Ambassadors, members of the US State Department, Members of the Spanish Minsitry of the Interior (Cultural Affairs Office), and other head businessmen/donors/sponsors who have contributed to the program. On a sidenote, 80% of our program/grant is funded by Spain, yet the US Government has so kindly decided to tax me on 100% of it...sweet.

After the reception, we all went out for tapas and explored the city. For many of us, it would be our last night in Madrid as we were off to our bases the next day, some beginning work as early as Friday.

Wednesday morning was full of goodbyes and emotions. In a short 3 days, I met some very amazing people who I know will one day change the world. Some of these people will easily turn into lifelong friends. I invited the Fulbright crew to come to Barcelona 23-26Sept for Fiesta de la Merce...it's the largest festival in Spain and is categorized with Catalan music, dancing, food, art, and fun. I was in Barcelona last year for this and it was awesome...i'm pretty excited for round two. They have a 10k next weekend to kick it off which I will be running in.

I've begun my search for a piso (flat)...easier said than done. Wish me luck. Bye for now...

PS, as many of you know I've been fasting for Ramadan this past month. That ends today, with Eid being tomrorow. Eid Kareem to all my friends and family...I'll be surely missing you all tomorrow.

Friday, September 3, 2010

Aquí no hay extraños, sólo amigos que aún no conocemos.

I saw that sign outside a shop today. It's rough translation is "Here, there are no such things as strangers, only friends you have not yet met."

So far, I'm finding this to be true. The move to my flat went fairly well considering all of the luggage I was travelling with. For the next two weeks, I'm staying in the heart of the tourist district, about 2 blocks from Las Ramblas. A block the other way will lead you to la Universitat de Barcelone with plenty of young hipsters eager to start up a conversation once they hear your American accent. My other flatmates are also very interesting...Paula is a 30 year old expat from Portugal. She's lived in 4 other countries and finally "settled" here. She speaks about 6 languages and works 2 jobs and is trying to start her own business. Amar is a 27 year old German who works as a buyer for Puma. He comes home at ridiculous hours so we haven't chatted too much, but he is an interesting guy with a connection to Raleigh (he was dating a girl who got a job there and just moved) So far it's been easy to find honest, hard-working people (yet none of them are natives...i'm just saying).

So, about the flat. It's small. I've seen walk-in closets bigger than my room. While the location is highly sought, there are plenty of negatives. Barcelona tops the list in Europe for the prevalence of petty crimes/theft. Las Ramblas is the center of the tourism district. Last year while travelling in Barcelona, my friend Matt was pickpocketed on a sidestreet off Las Ramblas. You see where I'm going?? I read an article before I left which said everyone in Barcelona will be robbed eventually, tourists and natives alike. Great.

Today, after trying for 5 hours, I was finally able to open up a bank account here. While that sounds simple, don't underestimate the inefficiency of Spain. There are essentially 3 things I must do here: open a bank account (check), obtain my NIE Residency card, and get cell phone service. Most banks won't open accounts to foreigners without their NIE card; you can't get an NIE card without a bank account; you can't get a cell phone contract without both an NIE card and a bank account. Yikes..After I return from Madrid next week, I'll have to find permanent housing and get started on the NIE piece.
The first day I moved in, I rummaged through my luggage, found my running shoes and took off towards the beach. The Mediterranean is absolutely beautiful. It was just before sunset and there were plenty of people scattered about. Although Barcelona is a city on the waterfront, it is also one of the busiest ports in Europe. Besides that, there are throusands of yachts lined up in the bay. I've heard it's pretty difficult to find a quiet spot to lay, but that's what the coastline south of Barcelona is famous for. I'll add it to my list of travels and report back..

Grocery shopping here is painless. Every street has local markets with fresh produce, butchers, and bakeries. Supermercados (Supermarkets) are becoming more popular one-stop shops. It is surprisingly cheap as well. Not something I was expecting when moving to a city which spends the most money in Europe on food.

Headed to Madrid tomorrow where I'll have my first true hostal experience. I owe you guys some pictures

Talk soon

Wednesday, September 1, 2010

Peace Up A-Town Down

Today's the day...in a mere 5 hours I will be in my new home in Barcelona. The excitement has set in and I can not wait to set foot on Spanish soil. I did, however, check three bags at the airport totaling a whopping 65kgs (yeah, I've gone Euro metric)...awesome.

The past few days has flown by. I feel like I've accomplished too much to count:
1. (Finally) finished all educational requirements for my Broker's license...yup, it's official...200 classroom hours, 4 years of precious time, and over $5000 in fees/books/expenses and I can sell you a house.
2. Started studying for my GMAT...yes, I brought books to Spain
3. Booked my trip back to the US...Barcelona >> Istanbul >>Nairobi >> Moscow >> Kota Kinabu >> Sydney >> Raleigh on July 15 2011. If anyone wishes to join, let me know and I will send you my dates.
4. Made a short list of places to travel while in Barcelona
5. Saw the majority of my friends one last time in Chapel Hill

Anyhow, the next few days will likely be busy settling in and completing logistical items such as opening a bank account, obtaining cell phone service, finding permanent housing, and gaining access to the hospital I will be working at.

My program orientation is this upcoming weekend in Madrid. I'm pretty excited to meet the other Americans who will be in BCN so I can begin planning a few trips with them and hear about their research proposals. Also, Fiesta de la Merce is at the end of the month. I was in BCN last year for this and it was an amazing time. Merce is the patron-saint of the city and to celebrate, Barcelonians take off 3-4 days and throw a huge festival. We're talking live music 24 hours a day for 3 days straight. Hopefully nobody gets pick-pocketed this time...

Also, I've switched to v-necks..

Talk soon